Fijian Cosmo

Fiji was a British Colony until she gained her independence in the early-to-mid 1960's. Even though Fiji is now her own country, influences from the former motherland remain.

Fiji drives on the wrong side of the road. This takes a great deal of adjustment for a white boy, even though he has been here many times before. Not only is the steering wheel on the wrong side of the car, the gear shift, blinker, and the windshield wiper wand are also opposite to what we're used to in America. This is not a terminal obstacle, but it does get mighty annoying to continually wash the windshield prior to signaling for a turn.

Another DOT British left-over in Fiji are the roundabouts. Traffic signals are sparse. But, the insidious circling, dodging of other cars, and trying to determine who has the right of way are not. An American's blood pressure begins to rise whenever one of these "circles of death" appears on the horizon. More than once did the Fijian drivers behind us let us know in no uncertain terms that we had violated Fijian traffic protocol.

As noted in another post, every piece of paper currency in Fiji has a likeness of the Queen Mother's face on its face. It is a good rendering of the old gal. But, it did cause one to stop and dread the day that the current dictator in the United States will one day conscript his socialistic face on all currency, with the inscription, "In Barack We Trust." May heaven forbid it.

Other facets of British influence that linger in Fiji include electricity doled out in 220 volt outlets, versus the 110 we are accustomed to in the states. Every handheld appliance and other western electronic device has to be operated through an extensive system of adapters. The Union Jack still appears on the Fijian national flag. And, hot tea is the drink of choice in many Fijian homes.

Fiji has been invaded by Indians. People from India, that is. Almost 50% of the population is Indian. Their influence is strongly felt. They own and run most of the businesses, drive most of the cabs, and even hold seats in Fijian Parliament. This is a source of great consternation to the native Fijian. One needs to tread lightly while visiting Fiji, in terms of noting this demographic reality. Coups have occurred through the years, and thousands of Indians have fled the country over time - because they know. They know that the only reason they are in this island paradise is that the Fijians allow them to be there. One wrong move, and mass evictions could occur - even violently. Indians have not forgotten that cannibalism was a part of Fijian history and culture.

If these things were not enough, America has also come to town. In a major way. American brands of clothing, food, cosmetics and toiletries, appliances, sporting goods, and a host of other things are readily available in major retailers in Fijian cities. Coca-Cola and McDonald's have bottling facilities and fast-food locations in major Fijian cities such as Nadi and Suva. Supermarkets carry Colgate, Juicy Fruit, Pringles, M&M's, Mentos, Baby Ruth, Ivory Soap, and scores of other items that a tourist would gravitate to. Selected restaurants serve burgers and fries, pizza, ice cream, and many other entrees that Americans would feel at ease ordering.

American influence can also be seen at the Nadi International Airport - especially in the ways that security is executed. Too, the airlines do their business in ways that have obviously been copied from American aviation.

Please do not misunderstand. "Fijian" is still the dominant brand in Fiji. The farther one gets away from the major metropolitan areas, the more traditional Fijian life becomes. People still live in Fijian villages, drink kava, sit on the floors of their homes with their shoes left at the door out of respect, cook their meals in the lovo ("earth oven"), wear the traditional Fijian dress (e.g., the sulu - male wrap-around skirt), and doggedly hang on to the old ways. If a tourist wants to have this experience, special permission has to be granted from a village chief for an outsider to come in for a visit. There are ways for this to happen, but it is not at all a common occurrence.

One of the great things about Fiji is the music. It is "island" to the core. The Methodist Church came to Fiji many years ago. And when they did, they taught the island people how to sing. And, boy did they learn well! Traditional Fijian music is rich in four part harmony, and choral sounding arrangements. The Polynesian influence is heard as well, with the use of ukuleles and Hawaiian slack-key and steel guitars. Fijians sing to entertain themselves. Other than making babies and playing rugby, singing seems to be one of the most popular past-times in this beautiful place. When you first get off the plane, you are greeted with a Fijian string band performing traditional Fijian music. And, when you leave, they always song their traditional song of farewell, "Isa Lei." It is a very emotional thing, indeed, to have the sweet people of this great country to serenade you on and off their islands.

Fijian Cosmo. I like it.